What The Afghan Turban Means

By Anne Kelley


Throughout time and in areas around the world, people have worn various signs and symbols that denote them as members of a particular group or community. There are many ways in which this message is conveyed such as identifiable tattoos, unique hair styles and quite often through the use of a distinct article of clothing. The Afghan turban is one such item and it tells a story about the person who bears it.

Afghanistan is a country with a very prominent and strict Islamic government which upholds the long standing tradition of how a turban is worn. In each area, there are little details in the design that denote what a man's community status is or even to what profession he is linked. This may be done by both pattern and color.

This is an ancient style of head gear and has been used throughout the centuries by the Pashtun tribes that inhabit both Afghanistan and the border regions of Pakistan. In Pashtu, the covering is known as a lungee and in Hindi it is called a pagree and both languages are used fluently. There is a specific way that this item is to be constructed so as to make it recognizable.

A lungee is made from a very lightweight cloth made mainly of either silk or thin cotton. It is a long strip of fabric, approximately five meters long and about a meter wide. Although it only weighs a couple of ounces, when properly wrapped on the head, it gives the illusion of being much larger and heavier.

This type of turban is unique in the way it is wrapped and worn and it has a very distinctive appearance. It begins by placing a small, simply designed cap with no brim and no decoration, over the top of the head. The reason for this is basically to keep the hair from getting caught up in the wrap or obstructing its construction.

The material is folded and twisted in a particular fashion as it is wrapped around the head. At its completion, it will appear as a ring round the crown of the skull with center portion still exposing the cap beneath it. The fabric ends are also specifically placed with one end extending just a short bit from the top of the covering and the other end hanging over the shoulder loosely.

The color choices a man makes when making his lungee are of utmost importance because they are the main means by which is community status is announced. It is necessary to know whether he his a common citizen or whether he is a village or religious leader because certain positions hold a great deal of decision making power and influence in the life all the townspeople. They control everyday matters both personal and professional.

As a general rule, the Afghan turban is normally only worn in varied forms of black and white or striped patterns. The combination of these details are how one's position in the community is denoted. They coverings also serve the dual purpose of being elemental protection from the heat, cold, wind and rain.




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