If you want to buy a Western saddle, visit a store that stocks Cactus saddles. These are hand-crafted and the saddlers have over 150 years of experience behind them. Choose from a range of types. You may be looking for barrel-racing or reining gear. Perhaps you compete in bull-dogging or roping. All these are in stock together with all-purpose saddles.
It is important that a saddle should fit properly. Badly fitting gear will rub, eventually causing saddle sores which can take a long time to heal. Being uncomfortable can also make a horse misbehave. It is important to try the saddle on the horse. Different brands will differ slightly even if they are advertised as the same size.
A medium/regular tree is usually suitable for a horse with an average wither. Modern-day Quarter horses, most gaited breeds and thoroughbreds will usually fit this model. Horses with a more solid build, a flatter back and more rounded, less defined wither will normally require a wide tree. A draft or extra wide tree is available for draft crosses and purebreds with a very wide, flat wither and back.
The bars of a saddle should be in contact with the horse. This spreads the weight of the rider and gear over a large area. If a horse has prominent, narrow withers, extra padding will be required behind the withers. Well-muscled horses will need a wider tree.
Ideally the horse's croup and wither will be level. A horse with a higher rump will put more pressure on the withers and may require an additional pad. Some horses, especially as they age, develop a swayback. The back dips down more than is normal. A saddle will then make contact with the back only at the front and rear. This can cause rubbing and excessive pressure in these areas. Poorly conditioned horses may also need a bridge pad until they develop better muscling.
The bars and skirts need to be the right length for the horse. Mounts with a short back may need rounded skirts and shorter bars. Saddles on mules sometimes rock because of their very level backs. Most pressure then falls in the middle of the back.
When trying a saddle, place it in position without a blanket. The skirt should be even and straight. A good-fitting saddle will have room for two or three fingers between the gullet of the saddle and the wither. A too narrow saddle will allow the full hand to be inserted and a too wide one will sit too low on the horse.
Work the animal in the new saddle until it builds up a good sweat. When the gear is removed, the sweat pattern should be even. Dry areas will show the presence of pressure points. Any ruffled or rubbed areas indicates excessive movement of the saddle. Saddles are built for specific purposes. A roping saddle must resist the torque of roping a steer. Gaited horses need gear which allows for their shoulder action. Mules typically need a straighter bar. With Cactus saddles, all bases will be covered.
It is important that a saddle should fit properly. Badly fitting gear will rub, eventually causing saddle sores which can take a long time to heal. Being uncomfortable can also make a horse misbehave. It is important to try the saddle on the horse. Different brands will differ slightly even if they are advertised as the same size.
A medium/regular tree is usually suitable for a horse with an average wither. Modern-day Quarter horses, most gaited breeds and thoroughbreds will usually fit this model. Horses with a more solid build, a flatter back and more rounded, less defined wither will normally require a wide tree. A draft or extra wide tree is available for draft crosses and purebreds with a very wide, flat wither and back.
The bars of a saddle should be in contact with the horse. This spreads the weight of the rider and gear over a large area. If a horse has prominent, narrow withers, extra padding will be required behind the withers. Well-muscled horses will need a wider tree.
Ideally the horse's croup and wither will be level. A horse with a higher rump will put more pressure on the withers and may require an additional pad. Some horses, especially as they age, develop a swayback. The back dips down more than is normal. A saddle will then make contact with the back only at the front and rear. This can cause rubbing and excessive pressure in these areas. Poorly conditioned horses may also need a bridge pad until they develop better muscling.
The bars and skirts need to be the right length for the horse. Mounts with a short back may need rounded skirts and shorter bars. Saddles on mules sometimes rock because of their very level backs. Most pressure then falls in the middle of the back.
When trying a saddle, place it in position without a blanket. The skirt should be even and straight. A good-fitting saddle will have room for two or three fingers between the gullet of the saddle and the wither. A too narrow saddle will allow the full hand to be inserted and a too wide one will sit too low on the horse.
Work the animal in the new saddle until it builds up a good sweat. When the gear is removed, the sweat pattern should be even. Dry areas will show the presence of pressure points. Any ruffled or rubbed areas indicates excessive movement of the saddle. Saddles are built for specific purposes. A roping saddle must resist the torque of roping a steer. Gaited horses need gear which allows for their shoulder action. Mules typically need a straighter bar. With Cactus saddles, all bases will be covered.
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